I Survived a 91-Hour Amtrak Journey With My Toddler: Why We’d Do It All Over Again

The focus should be on the journey itself rather than where you end up.

As I watched my infant sleep peacefully in a crib-like seat, enveloped by quietness with picturesque California landscapes streaming past the window, I knew I had made the correct decision. We were journeying coast-to-coast — from San Francisco to Savannah — aboard an Amtrak train .

When sharing details of this adventure with others, reactions varied widely. While some expressed enthusiasm, many thought that flying for seven to ten hours would be preferable. Thus, when starting my 91-hour trip from Emeryville, California, I felt somewhat anxious.

However, my anxiety calmed down as soon as I understood that I needed to arrive at the station just an hour early, providing ample time for baggage drop-off. Instead of navigating through the intricate airport security procedures while keeping my infant amused, we headed directly to the platform and boarded the train. Onboard, a train attendant assisted us with our hand luggage and stroller, then guided us to our own compartment.

I reserved a roomette featuring two spacious seats positioned opposite each other along with a big window. When evening comes around, these seats convert into a lower berth where both my daughter Isla and I sleep, while another upper berth unfolds overhead for my spouse, essentially forming bunk beds. This type of carriage includes communal facilities such as bathrooms and a shower that all occupants within the same roomette share. Alternatively, you have the option to book a larger bedroom complete with an en-suite bathroom and shower for added seclusion and extra space.

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The Journey Begins

To travel from the West Coast to the East Coast, you need to board three separate trains. The initial train is the California Zephyr This journey begins in Emeryville and concludes in Chicago after 52 hours. The train features an observation car located on the upper deck, equipped with expansive, panoramic windows that extend up to the ceiling and partially over the roof. Inside, you can find seating areas facing outward as well as several tables. It proved to be an ideal spot for spending quality time with my one-year-old child. During our first day aboard, we set up a small area at a table where I could prepare her breakfast before walking down the aisle among the rows of seats. Passengers seemed quite laid-back—enjoying the scenery and open to conversations. Among them were an older couple en route to Roseville, California, to welcome their newborn grandchild; a group bound for New York City; a businessman headed towards his meeting in Chicago; and a lady accompanying her centenarian mother to visit relatives in North Carolina.

When you reserve a private room, breakfast, lunch, and dinner are all provided. My infant did not require meals as they were complimentary with tickets, so there wasn't anything to stress over due to the generous servings. The chef prepares dishes such as flatiron steak, roasted salmon, and vegetable-packed primavera pasta. Following our substantial meal—where Isla and I split a burger—we both relaxed; she took a bottle feed before dozing off, while I watched the scenery shift from California into Nevada, admiring how snow-capped slopes and pine forests glowed under the warm sunlight of late afternoon.

As we dozed off, Nevada faded into the background and Utah came into view. A few companions got off at Salt Lake City, while new ones boarded during the late hours. One of the highlights occurred when I woke up in the morning and found myself captivated by the stunning sights near Green River, Utah. The terrain had transformed dramatically overnight, presenting me with breathtaking vistas right from my bed—the rugged crimson hills, sparse shrubs, deep gorges, and even some deer sipping water nearby.

Following breakfast, securing a spot in the observation car became more challenging. Passengers hurried to claim seats early because the train enters Colorado near 9 a.m., revealing breathtaking scenery that cannot be matched elsewhere. The valleys dotted with serene lakes, majestic snow-capped peaks of the Rockies, vivid red rock formations, and vibrant greenery present picturesque views wherever one looks. Seating ourselves at a table equipped with a sack full of my infant’s playthings, we relished the panorama. Meanwhile, the conductor used the public address system to draw attention to wildlife such as a moose quenching its thirst beside the Colorado River and an American bald eagle perched on a treetop nesting site, along with various other remarkable sights.

For an extensive distance, the Colorado River runs alongside the railway track. As the train approached Glenwood Springs, the segment of the river prior elicited bursts of amusement and astonishment when the conductor sounded the horn without warning and declared, "This part goes by the nickname 'Moon River.'" Rafts carrying people of various age groups promptly responded by lowering their trousers and flashing the occupants of the train, much to everyone's delight due to encouragement from the conductor through repeated blasts of the horn. This quirky ritual has persisted over several decades and still manages to generate enthusiasm among those on rafts and within the trains alike.

Then came Glenwood Springs. At certain stops, passengers have permission to disembark briefly to get some exercise for a short period. While many stations may not present much visually, this particular stop stands out as an exception. This picturesque town has a fairy-tale-like quality about it, and its station sits centrally within it all. Here you can take deep breaths amidst pine forests and observe delightful shops set against the backdrop of rugged crimson peaks. My companion had fun walking on the lawn and collecting fallen leaves until we returned aboard the train.

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Scenery Like No Other

Traveling with a baby demands adaptability, which is another advantage of traveling by train. There’s no need to remain stationary throughout your journey. When Isla got weary, it was time for some rest. A personal compartment lets you take care of those needs—such as changing diapers—without losing sight of the scenery outside.

We converted the seats into a makeshift bed for her to play with her toys, stream cartoons on my iPad (despite the lack of Wi-Fi on the train), and take naps whenever needed. Missing dinner due to an extended sleep wasn't a concern because room service was accessible. As Isla rested next to us, the conductor informed us that we were approaching a lengthy tunnel, signaling our departure from the Rockies beyond. This moment offered one of the most stunning vistas—towering mountains on one side and a vast valley extending far ahead during sunset.

The dinner took place during our halt at the Denver station. As we dozed off, the train traveled across Nebraska without us noticing. When I woke up the following morning, the scenery had transformed yet again. This part of the trip introduced an additional array of sights to observe as the train passed numerous farms and quaint little villages.

A notable moment was traversing the Mississippi River as we neared Chicago. Upon arriving at our destination, everyone hurriedly prepared for departure. Yet, once we passed over the waterway, all actions seemed to decelerate. Passengers leaned towards their windows, captivated by the grandeur of what is known as one of Earth's mightiest rivers.

Upon arriving in Chicago, I found myself pleasantly surprised as the whole process turned out smoother than expected, even with our infant and substantial baggage. Attendants assisted us by carrying our luggage onto carts and transporting it all to the complimentary lounge where travelers awaited connecting trains. Being adaptable remains crucial when traveling with an infant; thus, during our four-hour stopover, we ventured outside just long enough for a quick meal before returning to the Metropolitan Lounge which offered sofas, refreshments, and a designated area for kids to play. A tip: Showering on a moving train may prove tricky, making it potentially more comfortable to use the facilities available at the lounge instead.

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From Woods to Urban Areas

The Capitol Limited is the second leg of the trip. Although it’s smaller and lacks an observation car, the 18-hour ride primarily occurs during nighttime. In contrast to the Zephyr, mealtimes are more adaptable since the restaurant car does not employ attendants, with departures scheduled near 7 p.m. Many travelers choose to dine privately in their rooms, which worked out well for our family too. This way, mom and dad could enjoy a peaceful meal while the infant rested after the busy activity of switching trains earlier.

The journey passes through Indiana and Ohio under the cover of darkness; despite being quite dim, you can spot several small towns along the way. Even though the chamber features blackout drapes, I left mine drawn back as I looked forward to discovering the view from my window at daybreak. To my delight, the early light revealed an extensive emerald woodland stretching across Pennsylvania.

As the train rolled into Maryland, breakfast was being served. Dense forests surrounded us on all sides, making the air feel heavy with moisture nearly touchable. Then, just as we crossed over into West Virginia, the magnificent Potomac River appeared before our eyes, flanked by lush foliage along its banks.

When you're in Washington, D.C., you'll find a place called the Metropolitan Lounge. But because your wait will be more than six hours, spending all of that time there might not be ideal, particularly when traveling with a toddler who is just one year old. Instead, consider exploring the various dining options and shops at the station. You could also opt for an hour-long guided tour around the city which can provide some entertainment along with having a child. Close by, numerous museums await, such as the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum where reservations must be made beforehand.

Almost There

For the last leg of this coast-to-coast trip The Silver Meteor train turned into our temporary abode for the evening. Despite its rich history dating back to the 1930s when it first launched, this particular locomotive boasts state-of-the-art amenities compared to its counterparts. Recently refurbished, the dining car provided an elegant ambiance where we dined just as the sunset painted the sky outside. Seated within a space adorned with subdued lighting, plush benches, and freshly cut roses adorning each table, passengers could enjoy views through dual panes of glass capturing their final looks at Washington, D.C., before departing.

The individual compartments aboard this train seem larger. Given that the train lacks an upper level, the top bunk offers extra space, allowing whoever sleeps there to sit up comfortably without bumping their head—an aspect my spouse found particularly pleasing. Additionally, this train provides ample storage for personal belongings, includes Wi-Fi access, and features both a toilet and washbasin within each compartment—though they lack doors, which makes shared use less than ideal when traveling with others.

Before retiring for the evening, the car attendant provided hot water for my infant's bottle and assured us not to fret as they would ensure we were awakened well ahead of reaching our destination in Savannah. As promised, a couple of hours prior to arrival, they gently rapped at our cabin door, allowing us enough time to prepare ourselves, enjoy a light meal, and bid farewell.

Reflecting on it now, if I had to take this journey once more, I'd tweak just a handful of aspects—primarily my packing strategy. While the accommodations offer ample storage for compact luggage, they fall short when accommodating larger suitcases. In hindsight, I should've ensured all bulky items got checked-in and kept an easily accessible backpack stocked with necessities such as extra clothing changes. Traveling via rail with a toddler was also something I wouldn’t hesitate to repeat; Isla reveled in every moment aboard the trains, from strolling down the corridors to sampling different snacks and socializing with fellow passengers.
However, rather than opting for a roomette next time around, I’d go for a family suite due to their additional square footage. This adjustment seems essential since our little one commandeered the entire sleeping area nightly following long days filled with adventures across various landscapes.

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