Discover the Charms of the Amalfi Coast Alternative: Less Crowds, Equal Beauty

While the Amalfi Coast is famous for its lemons, nearby Cilento boasts an abundance of eggplants, artichokes, and zucchinis. It also produces white figs—soft and delectably sweet. These were generously shared with my kids by a friendly farmer during our wait in a hilltop village, where we observed mourners passing through after a funeral procession.

Though the Cilento region While perhaps not globally renowned, the health advantages of following a Mediterranean diet are indeed well-established. In the 1960s, the concept that ingredients like olive oil, close-knit family structures, and — let’s admit it — even moderate consumption of red wine could contribute positively to one's wellbeing was explored in an area named Cilento. There, an American researcher named Ancel Keys resided in a village called Pioppi—now home to a modest museum—and investigated local culinary practices and customs. The inhabitants of this region were particularly noted for their longevity and relatively carefree existence.

Eating healthily isn’t the sole motivation for leaving Amalfi’s coast behind and venturing south into Cilento—especially since travel has become more convenient with the recently opened Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport. At first glance, this stretch of shoreline doesn’t resemble the steep cliffs characteristic of the Amalfi Coast. Amalfi .

Starting from Salerno, you encounter vast grasslands grazed by water buffaloes, interrupted solely by time-worn pillars emerging from the ruins of Greek temples in Paestum. The true comparison begins only when reaching Palinuro, where the verdant promontories drop sharply into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Last summer, EasyJet became the premier British carrier to utilize Salerno’s newly opened international airport. The company plans to resume flights from London Gatwick starting in May. When you arrive, consider renting a vehicle in central Salerno since rental options at the airport remain limited. As soon as you leave the urban area behind, the driving experience differs significantly from what you’d encounter on Amalfi’s congested thoroughfares.

In Cilento, UNESCO recognizes significant Greek and Roman ruins, starting with the archaeological area at Paestum as your initial destination. You can examine these sites alongside only a few other visitors, admiring Doric temples dating back to the 5th century BCE amidst tranquil surroundings, moving freely among both the internal and external fluted columns.

Paestum is an ideal location for exploring Cilento’s culinary heritage and sampling famous buffalo mozzarella. A notable family upholding this region's organic practices is the Pagano clan, owners of the Savoy Beach Hotel. Their two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Tre Olivi, serves innovative cuisine rooted in regional flavors, including delicacies like roasted suckling pig paired with figs and locally grown Vatolla onions.

The Pagonos also own a winery in Paestum. San Salvatore 1988 , known for producing the area’s finest bottles. At La Dispensa di San Salvatore, the Pagano family’s farm shop and eatery, we crafted pasta, shaping small bits of dough into ear-like orecchiette using our thumbs. Close by is Tenuta Vannulo , an organic buffalo farm where guests can observe the creation of pristine mozzarella balls.

If you're looking for dramatic, 70-meter-tall cliffs with a romantic touch, venture farther south to Palinuro. This area boasts stunning promontories hiding enchanting hidden coves and caves. When at Spiaggia di Marinella, we debated about renting a pedal boat until we spotted several octogenarians joyfully navigating them. Despite having amenities like umbrellas and dining options, these do not diminish the allure of the pristine beauty around—think jagged offshore islets contrasting against untouched, silvery beaches stretching out on both sides.

One tranquil morning, when the yachts were not overly abundant, we navigated our pedal boat around to the nearby cove called Buon Dormire. The sun-weathered driftwood rested along an otherwise unreachable shoreline, as colorful fish grazed on flower-shaped corals in the clear, lucid sea.

Across from Marinella beach stood a cliff face composed of limestone tinged with peach. We swam for a brief distance to reach the pebble-strewn shore at their base, then cautiously entered the open sea caves. Above us, a group of loud swifts wheeled and darted through the air.

To explore Cilento for sightseeing, consider driving up to the pastel-colored villages perched above the coastline or overlooking lush valleys within the Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park.

Pisciotti is an exceptionally brittle instance, featuring sheer cliffs on every side. Make sure to visit the family-operated Osteria del Borgo to sample anchovies caught using the traditional Pisciotta technique, also referred to as menaica ), served on toast, accompanied by butter and grilled zucchini.

From Castellabate, which leads toward Paestum, cascades down from a 12th-century fortress adorned with a plaque bearing a statement attributed to Napoleon's brother-in-law: "Here you do not die." Together with neighboring Agropoli, you can leisurely wander through the winding streets, pausing for a sip of wine—knowing confidently that it’s beneficial for your health—in vine-covered taverns.

Visitors with extra time could venture inland for about an hour to visit the UNESCO-listed Carthusian monastery in Padula. However, we opted to stay closer to the shore and explored Santa Maria di Castellabate, one of the area’s loveliest coastal towns. During aperitif time, we observed locals—mostly older folks—taking leisurely walks and engaging in conversations along the waterfront promenade lined with seafood eateries, ice cream shops, and curved sandy shores. Freshly caught fish graced our plates at sunset at El Gatto, where fishing nets adorned the walls and dining took place under arched stonework terraces.

Towering behind high walls, close by, sits the 17th-century Palazzo Belmonte, which was formerly an administrative hub for local farmers. A large fig tree sprawls over its stony courtyard.

Nowadays, it has transformed into a rustic-chic hotel featuring elegant suites, a swimming pool, and access to a beautiful beach, managed by an Englishwoman who many years ago wed an Italian prince. The princess continues to stroll around the premises, warmly greeting repeat visitors as she trims the vibrant pink bougainvillea. This is yet another instance from Cilento where one can see how a full and richly lived life unfolds.

Essentials

EasyJet Flights from London Gatwick to Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport start at £57 for a round trip, and British Airways plans to launch this route in May. The Savoy Beach Hotel located in Paestum (0039 0828 720100) offers rooms starting at £126 per night, which includes breakfast; whilst Palazzo Belmonte In Santa Maria di Castellabate (0039 0974 960211), rooms start at £136 per night for double occupancy, with breakfast not included.

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