Why Route 66 Remains the Ultimate Journey Through America's Heartland

Outside the Polk-A-Dot Drive-In in Braidwood, Illinois, stood a full-size statue of Marilyn Monroe—her one hand covering her face while the other held down her light pink dress, which was billowing from an imaginary breeze. Beside her to the left, James Dean wore a coat with fur lining and had a worried expression. To her right, Elvis Presley murmured into a microphone. A sign outlined with pink neon read "malts, hot dogs, and sodas."

This type of splendidly exaggerated taste of American culture is precisely what I anticipated from Route 66. I had drifted into Chicago If we had started our journey a bit earlier, I would have encountered Joliet's massive "Gigantar" — the world's largest handcrafted guitar sculpture located just outside the newly opened Illinois Rock and Roll Museum. Alongside this, there was also one of the iconic "muffler men," which refers to a towering fiberglass figure holding a gleaming silver rocket ship. Considering my plan to follow the historical path right up to sunny Santa Monica, I anticipated seeing many similar sights along the way.

Route 66 traces its origins back to 1926 when the inaugural national highway system was set up in the USA. Dubbed "The Main Street of America," this iconic route stretches over more than 2,400 miles, snaking through cities starting from Chicago, Illinois — passing through states like Missouri, Kansas, and Oklahoma. Texas , New Mexico, and Arizona – to Santa Monica, California , and was advertised as the easiest method for traveling across the country.

In the twenties, car ownership surged, leading to rapid development alongside emerging Route 66 with establishments like gas stations, resting areas, and neon-lit motels. The highway soon embedded itself into mainstream culture; its lasting nickname, "The Mother Road," originated from John Steinbeck’s 1939 book, The Grapes of Wrath. By 1946, Nat King Cole had immortalized it in song as he crooned about finding kicks on this famous route. Beyond just being a thoroughfare, it stood as an emblem—a grease-stained yet vibrant tapestry woven together by diners—representing America hurtling forward.

However, by the 1950s, it was clear what direction things were heading. Following his trip to Germany, President Eisenhower marveled at the efficient Autobahn system and envisioned an equivalent network for the U.S., leading to the creation of America’s Interstate Highway System with its expansive, wide lanes stretching coast-to-coast. This massive infrastructure project ultimately led to the demise of Route 66, which was taken off official maps in 1985. In 2018, this iconic path found itself listed among the most endangered historic sites under the care of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

However, this legendary path is currently experiencing a resurgence. With the Mother Road approaching its hundredth anniversary in 2026, various states are getting ready for a surge of global visitors by establishing new museums and restoring vintage motels. Additionally, substantial funds amounting to millions of dollars are being allocated to fix historical neon signage and repave roadways.

The wheels of change are turning in Springfield, Illinois’s historically rich capital city. Last month, I drove in and headed straight to Ace Sign Co., a legendary establishment still crafting signs for sites along Route 66. Run by the same family for over eighty years, Ace has transformed into both a manufacturing site and a museum, providing guided tours to visitors.

After Route 66 ceased operations, several of the lesser-known towns alongside the road declined," explained my guide and ex-Ace president Dennis Bringuet as we meandered among the flickering neon signs. "However, the Mother Road can endure if we envision a renewed destiny for it.

Certainly, Ace Sign Co plays a significant role in shaping the direction of this route. They were responsible for establishing the newly unveiled Illinois Route 66 Experience within the grounds of the Illinois State Fair. This open-air museum showcases an array of large-scale replicas of vintage neon signage together with exhibits highlighting key points of interest along Illinois' iconic Route 66—from classic drive-ins to whimsical roadside landmarks.
After wandering through these outdoor installations, I headed off to visit Route History, yet another fresh addition to the area. Focused specifically on African American heritage, this particular museum was noted by co-owner Dr Stacy Grundy as being uniquely distinct; she mentioned that no such institution currently exists elsewhere.

We're the sole physical museum dedicated to African American history along Route 66," she explained, as I entered an exhibition-filled space formerly used as a Texaco service station. "People often talked about 'having their kicks on Route 66,' yet for Black travelers, the experience was vastly different.

That was an era of segregation: the places where Black travelers could dine, rest, or obtain gas were all determined by the color of their skin and governed by Jim Crow laws.

The petite museum houses exhibits about the Green Book (an essential resource cataloging establishments willing to serve African American travelers during the segregation period), along with significant local historical occurrences like the Springfield Race Riot of 1908. However, the standout feature is a virtual reality exhibit developed through extensive 18-months of study and numerous archived personal accounts.

Engaging narratives trace the experiences of African-American individuals as they travel along Route 66. I decided to focus on a family journeying during the Great Migration, which saw millions of African-Americans relocate from the rural South to northern urban areas throughout the 20th century. In an unsettling moment, the family comes across a harsh law enforcement official in what was known as a "sundown town" — locations where people of color were discouraged or prohibited from being present after sunset.

If we fail to share these tales, they will vanish," Grundy stated. "And occasionally, stories are the only remnants we retain.

Driving westward away from Springfield, Illinois slowly disappeared behind me. As I delved deeper into Missouri’s Ozark Mountains, I reveled in watching the monotonous, barn-dotted plains along the road transform into undulating hills blanketed with blooming redbud trees. Throughout the journey, traces of the old two-lane highway were hard to find, appearing only intermittently amidst fragmented sections.

Sometimes, I hit a roadblock and had to retreat back onto the busy freeway. The signs were also unreliable at times; I managed using spoken instructions, printed maps, and by configuring my GPS app to bypass highways. My phone would often inform me that taking an alternative route made for a longer journey—precisely what I intended all along.

Finally, the colossal Gateway Arch of St. Louis emerged into view, a longstanding emblem of westward expansion, appearing as though a mirage before my eyes. Over several days, I immersed myself in the vibrancy of the city—waiting in line for frozen custard at the historic Ted Drewes along Mother Road and exploring Maplewood, an eclectic Route 66 neighborhood brimming with microbreweries and bookstores—prior to heading further southwest.

The route winds through a narrow stretch of Kansas, then curves into Oklahoma, where I explored the Cherokee Nation Anna Mitchell Cultural and Welcome Center in Vinita. The Cherokee, along with various other indigenous groups, were brutally relocated from their ancestral lands in the Southeast to what was dubbed "Indian Territory" (present-day Oklahoma) during the forced migration known as the Trail of Tears between 1830 and beyond.

Approximately 1,372 miles of Route 66 run across Indigenous territories, yet depictions of Native American culture alongside the route tend to be clumsy—ranging from outrageously colored tipis promoting trinkets to glowing signs featuring caricatures of Native leaders used to attract business for predominantly white-owned hotels.

However, this center, established in 2022 under indigenous management, aims to safeguard an aspect of Native Cherokee culture: traditional pottery methods that had nearly vanished until being rejuvenated through the efforts of artist Anna Mitchell. Her creations—primarily earthen-hued containers—are exhibited within glass cabinets along with exhibits about Route 66 history.

"It means: 'We are here,'" Cherokee potter Carrie Lind explained succinctly as she showed me around.

Past the newly established museums and thoughtfully designed cultural sites, even the traditional gas stations and vintage motels along Route 66 are undergoing renovations. While exploring Tulsa, I encountered Mary Beth Babcock at Buck Atom’s Cosmic Curios on 66, surrounded by vibrant science fiction-themed artwork and handcrafted jewelry pieces. She mentioned that since opening her shop in 2018 within a former 1950s service station, she has showcased creations from around 60 local artists. This enterprise stands as one of the first businesses to open up in what is now becoming a fashionable area known as the Meadow Gold District—a zone alongside historical Route 66 filled with art galleries and coffee shops.

It's essential to honor our history, yet we must also create innovative paths for the future," she stated. "We can transform these magnificent historical sites, which require care, into enchanting havens.

The tale unfolds similarly in Albuquerque. After journeying through New Mexico’s largest metropolis via Amarillo, Texas—home to the vibrant Cadillac Ranch—I ended up in the fashionable Nob Hill district. More stretches of historic Route 66 pass through Albuquerque than any other city, and in Nob Hill, you'll find distinctive independent stores and artisanal cafes. For my stay, I lodged at the newly opened Hotel Zazz, an artsy retreat housed within a former 1960s Travelodge complete with a hidden bar reminiscent of prohibition days.

Further west, more vintage sleep options were also available. As I ascended towards the mountain city of Flagstaff, Arizona, the roadside was covered with snow. In this historic locale, the refurbished Americana Motor Hotel—a reinterpretation of a former 1960s motor inn—debuted in 2023. It stands as yet another example of contemporary nostalgic design.

Discoballs adorn the guest rooms, and the lobby is decorated with vibrant shades of popping orange and grass green, reminiscent of the mid-20th century aesthetic. A short drive away, the Galaxy Diner has been serving burgers and milkshakes for over 60 years.

However, my concluding journey through western Arizona and into eastern California reaffirmed what this route truly represents. The most spectacular vistas were reserved for the end, with towering crimson mountains serving as a hidden treasure that the path had safeguarded throughout. While driving, I noticed a group of coyotes playfully leaping near the edge of the road.

As we approached downtown Los Angeles, the skyscrapers came into sight, and I realized that my last stop — the beaches of Santa Monica and the plush rooms at the newly opened Pierside Santa Monica — was just within reach. Watching the sunset over the Santa Monica Pier, I pondered the incredible voyage along Route 66—a route rooted in history yet looking toward tomorrow. It truly encapsulated the essence of modern nostalgic travel.

Essentials

Jacqui Agate was featured by tailor-made vacation experts America As You Like It (020 8742 8299;). americaasyoulikeit.com ) providing Top Routes along Route 66 starting at £1,955 per person, inclusive of flights, car rental, and lodgings (which include stays at Hotel Zazz, Americana Motel, and Pierside Santa Monica).

Subscribe to the Front Page newsletter at no cost: Your daily go-to resource for understanding today’s events, brought to you by The Telegraph—delivered right to your mailbox every single day of the week.