How to Choose the Perfect Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide

There are numerous bewildering landmarks throughout a man's journey through life. For instance, coming to terms with the fact that becoming a pro athlete is out of reach or finding unexpected fascination in medieval history. As surely as darkness follows daylight, your path will eventually lead you to develop an interest in timepieces. While you may not dive headfirst into planning a luxurious week-long expedition across Switzerland’s prestigious watchmaking valley or liquidate your retirement fund for exotic-faced Daytona watches, sooner or later, the allure of watches will emerge, whether subtly or dramatically.

There are numerous fascinating watchmakers and countless excellent timepieces out there, making it challenging to know where to begin when the desire strikes you. You may think that a "quality" watch is invariably costly, but fortunately, this isn’t true. Nonetheless, it’s still feasible to end up purchasing one that doesn’t meet your expectations. wrong watch.

Similar to a house, a car, or even a sandwich, a particular watch may resonate with you in an indescribable manner—the allure of this connection is part of its charm. However, I recommend starting your journey with rational thought. Every watch serves the fundamental purpose of telling time; however, purchasing one involves considerations beyond mere feelings. It’s crucial to grasp what makes the watch tick and to pose critical questions to yourself. Below is guidance on how to kick off your search.

What Is Your Budget?

This could be the key factor in your search, yet it might not restrict your choices. If you only have $50, purchasing a high-end item will likely be out of reach. Cartier Tank , but you can get a Casio tank , which isn’t identical, but it certainly has its own appeal. (In fact, there are those who would say that the Casio is an even greater show of status.)

The cost does not always reflect the quality. While they frequently correlate, watches exhibit an interesting dynamic where certain models provide substantial value at lower prices. Conversely, some highly pricey timepieces may disappoint with their performance. Seiko 5 GMT ($475) For instance, this watch features an internal automatic movement and boasts technical precision and superior craftsmanship comparable to timepieces priced at ten times the amount. If your budget is around $500, I'd suggest concluding your search right now and heading directly to a Seiko store.

What About the Used Market?

This presents an opportune time to examine the advantages and disadvantages of second-hand watches, spanning those barely used to those quite aged. Naturally, purchasing pre-owned items can come with certain risks, which underscores the importance of having a reliable seller. Several major online merchants, such as Watchfinder & Co. and Chrono 24 , are highly esteemed, just like the countless reputable and genuine independent dealers nationwide.

Browse different places, go to retailers, inquire about details. Reddit (a great source of info), and do your research . There are countless horror stories of people unknowingly buying so-called Frankenstein watches (cobbled together from spare parts) and fakes that are literally worth nothing, so be careful. That said, the secondary market is where you can get the best value and even some serious bargains. Finding a great pre-owned watch can depend on luck, but you’re luckier if you know more and deal with people you can trust.

How and Where Do You Intend to Wear the Watch?

Is it going to be your daily workhorse watch or reserved exclusively for special, luxurious moments? Are you aiming for everyone to admire it when they spot it, or do you prefer keeping it low-key as a private indulgence? Perhaps you're after an iconic classic or perhaps something cutting-edge that challenges conventional notions of what a wristwatch can be. Or maybe you simply desire a stylish accessory that also happens to tell time accurately.

Watches can generally be categorized into two main types. The first type includes tool watches, which are robust and practical items meant to withstand activities such as diving, driving, piloting aircraft, sailing, among others. Then there are dress watches, known for their slim design and elegance, often incorporating luxurious materials like precious metals and gemstones along with leather bands and understated casings. To draw an analogy, think of a tool watch as comparable to sturdy work boots, whereas a dress watch would resemble a tuxedo.

However, complicating matters further, a million watches lie in between these two categories. Some dive watches are crafted from platinum, while some basic dress watches feature stainless steel casings paired with rubber bands. Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques 222 For instance, this is a vintage 1970s sports watch that has been reintroduced in 18-karat gold.

If you plan to wear it every day, I’d recommend a steel watch on a bracelet or leather strap. If it can handle a little time underwater, then all the better. Marques like TAG Heuer (the Carrerra ), Omega (the Speedmaster ), and Tudor (the Black Bay ) all make great everyday tool watches that range in price from $3,000 to $4,000 or more. They’ll last a lifetime and might even increase in value, which is something to consider. For a dressier watch, I don’t think anyone beats Cartier on elegance, but nearly every major Swiss maker offers something sleek and gold.

What Do You Want Your Watch to Do?

Next, you need to consider the complications. In watch lingo, a complication is a function the watch can perform beyond telling the time in one time zone, and generally the term refers to mechanical watches, whether hand-wound or automatic. A chronograph (or stopwatch) function is a widespread and relatively low-level complication, while a GMT function (offering a second time zone) is slightly more complex. In general, the more complications a watch has, the more expensive it will be, because it’s harder to make. A watch with a perpetual calendar function, for example, only needs to be set once and self-adjusts, even accounting for leap years. Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications 5327R , boasting a perpetual calendar, has a retail price of $103,460.

Given that many individuals rely on their phones to check the time, wristwatches with complex features are primarily status symbols rather than practical tools. A friend of mine, who happens to be a watchmaker, mentioned that he sometimes employs his chronograph function to measure how long an egg takes to boil. However, functionalities like a date display can indeed be useful, and having a second timezone feature is beneficial for frequent travelers.

Where Was the Watch Produced?

Switzerland is considered the birthplace of watchmaking, with "Swiss Made" typically symbolizing excellence. (Check for this term below the '6' on a watch face). However, not all Swiss-produced timepieces are alike, and certain non-Swiss watches can be equally impressive. Seiko boasts highly developed, automated technology in their watches. and Artisanal production facilities in Japan, such as those used by Bremont, for instance. Shinola Assemble watches in the U.K. and the U.S., respectively, although frequently utilizing Swiss components.

What Message Do You Want the Watch to Convey About You?

It’s now time to choose a brand, where personal preferences truly become apparent. Think of watch brands as similar to sports teams; historically, individuals tended to align with one particular brand, but recently, a more inclusive collecting culture has developed, making it quite common to find someone who wears watches from various brands. Swatch one day and an Audemars Piguet the next.

In the end, consider what message you want the watch to convey about your personality. . If you wear a Rolex , others may perceive you as successful; if you opt for a vintage look, Zenith , others might assume you have extensive knowledge about watches (and likely achieve significant success). Perhaps you'll commit to assembling an impressive assortment of antique timepieces. Tissots , or maybe you’ll jump two-footed into the growing market for iconoclastic independent watchmakers, which is perhaps where the most fun, style, and value for the money are to be found these days. (Have a look at Studio Underdog , Nomos Glashutte , or Massena LAB .)

Next up are the "fashion" watches produced by fashion labels instead of specialized watchmakers. Previously, these brands often neglected this sector of the market; however, they've recently started investing significantly in their watch divisions and are now developing truly compelling and sophisticated wristwatches. Louis Vuitton is leading the way, Hermès it makes an excellent timepiece, and Gucci is not far behind.

In conclusion, I strongly encourage you to explore The well-known brands excel in their respective fields and would consider themselves fortunate to gain your patronage. However, broaden your reading horizon and conduct thorough research. You possess ample time; nonetheless, there’s a limit to how many watches one might acquire throughout their life.

10 Overlooked Watch Brands You Should Think About

Purchasing a Rolex, Omega, or Cartier will always be a sound decision. However, if you're looking for a cost-effective option and desire a high-quality timepiece without the premium associated with renowned Swiss brands, look into these alternatives, priced between $400 and almost $5,000.