Dior's Show Was a Runway Time Capsule

In the dazzling realm of Dior, the neck ruffle continues to thrive. This classic element from the Elizabethan era served as a tribute to Virginia Woolf’s groundbreaking book. Orlando , thanks to Dior's creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. However, that was not the sole nostalgic element showcased at Dior’s fall/winter 2025 presentation in Paris today.

Today, Dior revived another iconic moment from pop culture’s sartorial past. Reintroduced was the famous J'adore Dior T-shirt, now transformed into a celebrity-endorsed design featuring an elongated silhouette adorned with delicate lacy patches. Alongside these, there were striking frills, fur-lined capes printed with dalmatians, both long and short versions of jacquard jackets, and strong references to the Victorian era, coupled with elements reminiscent of medieval style. Picture floor-sweeping black lace dresses, see-through blouses intricately embroidered with flowers, topped off by the standout piece—a structurally sound bell-shaped minidress embellished with layers of lace, fitting seamlessly within the grandeur of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Cloisters exhibit.
From a distance, each ensemble appeared as though plucked directly out of fairyland or forged for contemporary chivalry; a subtle yet powerful assertion coming from one of only a handful of female creative directors showcasing their work during Paris Fashion Week.

The exhibition began with a model perched on a swing—a spectral figure setting the scene for an installation that seemed far more intense compared to Dior shows in previous seasons. Instead of typical collaboratively designed artworks adorning the walls, this event transported attendees to another realm or cosmos altogether. Enormous prehistoric-looking white birds soared overhead at the venue, which also featured asteroids, illuminated icebergs, and cosmic projections. The backdrop music was provided by FKA Twigs’ track "Room of Fools."

This season, Chiuri focused on the concept of transformation, drawing inspiration from the Dior archives as well as broader aspects of fashion history. She explained in the show notes, "My aim is to showcase how garments serve as vessels embodying cultural, aesthetic, and societal norms." According to her, every collection represents an imaginative endeavor, a realization, and an encouragement for individuals to express their true selves through fashion.

The reference to ex-Dior creative director John Galliano was evident through the well-known J'Adore Dior T-shirt that he made famous around the early 2000s. However, Chiuri was equally influenced by Gianfranco Ferré, the previous Dior artistic director who served from 1989 to 1996. As stated in the show notes: "Exploring narratives within fashion and its diversions enables us to honor a femininity that envisions potential futures by blending references to a past increasingly close to today’s attire."

Everything from the ruffles to the round collars was complemented by the familiar styles we associate most with Chiuri. Sheer fabrics that seemed almost weightless, olive green trench coats, and robust black leather riding boots stood out when paired with other pieces like veiled berets.

To conclude the presentation, the models rushed onto the catwalk simultaneously, pairing up and striking poses before departing again. Given that there were 79 different ensembles overall, the lineup might have seemed somewhat daunting due to its sheer size. Nonetheless, it highlighted both the traditional style associated with Maria Grazia Chiuri as well as introducing some fresh elements that the fashion world has eagerly anticipated from Dior. This season continues to be characterized by themes of nostalgia and heritage.