Mastering the Art of Time: All You Need to Know About the Rolex GMT-Master

Even if you're clueless about watches, you've surely heard of " Pepsi ."

We’re not referring to the beverage here. Instead, we mean the two-tone, blue-and-red bezel ring that immediately identifies this particular timepiece as a creation from Rolex. Rolex This watch, known as the GMT-Master, GMT-Master II ) has spread so widely throughout popular culture that even those new to watch collecting are at least remotely But are you familiar with it? What about is Exactly, and what sets it apart from something like, for instance, a Rolex dive watch or a Rolex racing watch This year, as we celebrate its 70th anniversary, let’s delve into the specifics together. Join us on this journey...

Commercial Aviation Takes Off

Before World War II, commercial air travel bore little resemblance to our current digital age of sophisticated, long-haul flights controlled by computers. Suppose you aimed to traverse the globe with flair around 1934; the primary requirement was substantial wealth since there existed just one class of service—what we'd now classify as business-class seating. After ensuring your reservation—all transactions were conducted face-to-face during those times when Babe Ruth starred for the New York Yankees—you dressed formally before heading to an airstrip or sea-plane terminal. You then climbed aboard sturdy yet rudimentary aluminum planes like the Boeing B-314 Yankee Clipper, fastening yourself securely inside. The lack of regulated cabin pressure likely left you feeling unwell, and abrupt changes in altitude did nothing to improve matters; reading multiple novels might have been necessary to pass the time. eight-day traveling from, for instance, London to Singapore, involving 22 distinct layovers (a trip that now lasts 13 uninterrupted hours).

When Allied pilots first faced the Messerschmitt Me-262 equipped with a jet engine above European skies during World War II, everything changed. Then, on May 2nd, 1952, when BOAC (British Overseas Airways Corporation) introduced the de Havilland Comet to service, up to 36 travelers were able to zip across approximately 2,500 miles at speeds reaching 450 mph. Featuring amenities like a pressurized cabin, spacious windows, a kitchen area, and even a lounge, this aircraft marked the dawn of modern long-distance air travel. It enabled those from the post-war affluent class to savor swift and luxurious journeys. aircraft technology Enhancements led to bigger and safer aircraft, and with the introduction of new fare tiers, air tickets became more affordable, thus opening up air travel to everyone.

From Pan Am to Outer Space

Racing through the sky at speeds exceeding hundreds of miles per hour, pilots and flight crew required a mechanism capable of tracking not only their local times but also Greenwich Mean Time, defined along the Prime Meridian in 1884, alongside the standardized timing used by air traffic control personnel during the '50s. According to lore, Pan American Airlines reached out to Rolex seeking a specialized wristwatch for aviators. In response, the innovative Swiss company adapted its self-winding caliber 1030 by incorporating an additional hour hand synchronized with the primary hour hand inside an Oyster casing. Additionally, they equipped it with a revolving, bi-directional bezel featuring a 24-hour scale. This creation became known as the GMT-Master With reference number 6542, this watch could monitor both local time and another timezone by determining the difference between the red-accented fourth hand (indicating the secondary timezone hours) and the spinning bezel. The radium accents on the dial and bezel offered visibility in dim lighting conditions, while its Oyster case featuring a screw-down crown and back ensured waterproofing. When launched in 1955, it stood out as a groundbreaking achievement—being the inaugural self-winding, chronometer-certified, luminescent, waterproof wristwatch capable of displaying two times simultaneously on a metallic band.

The bi-colored bezel of the watch—which displays blue for night time and red for day time—serves not just as a clever visual tool for the user but also inadvertently as a striking marketing strategy. Commonly referred to as a "Pepsi" bezel due to its color scheme, this distinctive element has become synonymous with the GMT-Master series and continues to be replicated extensively by various other watch manufacturers. In fact, numerous individuals might recognize a “Rolex Pepsi” at first glance without necessarily being aware of the specific features that set it apart.

A Slow Evolution

Throughout the years, the GMT-Master underwent subtle changes characteristic of Rolex—featuring improved movements, incrementally bigger cases, and enhanced functionalities. bracelets It would be embraced not just by pilots but also by soldiers, astronauts, musicians, actors, and people everywhere around the globe. In 1959, this watch adorned the wrists of two U.S. aviators during a significant mission to Moscow amid the peak of the Cold War. That very same year, as two Land Rovers embarked on an extensive trek from England all the way to Singapore, every member of the young former Parachute Regiment team had their wrists wrapped around a GMT-Master throughout the adventure. Then came 1967 when Major William John 'Pete' Knight took charge of the X-15 experimental plane, achieving a velocity of 4,520 miles per hour (Mach 6.7) —a feat still unmatched—his trusty GMT-Master securely fastened to his arm. Even though it received approval from NASA, Omega Speedmaster That was utilized to schedule the rocket firings which eventually rescued the Apollo 13 mission; it was a GMT-Master that accurately ticked away on Command Module Pilot Jack Swigert’s wrist. In brief: The GMT-Master isn’t merely aesthetically pleasing. Its legacy includes witnessing several pivotal moments in aerospace history.

In 1982, the GMT-Master achieved particular significance with a technical upgrade. The modification involved altering the watch’s automatic movement to allow independent adjustment of the local hour hand. From a functional standpoint, this update freed the GMT hand from being synchronized with the local hour hand; practically, it indicated that the bezel became less crucial for determining a secondary time zone. Additionally, enthusiasts had the option to utilize the watch for tracking additional time zones without relying on the bezel as much. three Time zones: One indicated by the primary hour hand, another with the GMT hand, and a third utilizing the bezel for calculating an adjustment based on either of those two hour hands. (The sole challenge here lies in the absence of a 24-hour scale on the face, making it tricky to determine a time zone using the GMT hand.) without The bezel requires you to remember an invisible 24-hour scale on the watch face itself.)

The GMT-Master II, which continues to be produced today, would still look familiar to a U.S. Air Force pilot from the 1950s—a remarkable achievement in design consistency. Indeed, as of 2025, there are more variations of the GMT-Master II being offered simultaneously than ever before in Rolex’s history. Besides stainless steel options, this timepiece can now be found in yellow Rolesor gold, Everose Rolesor gold, solid yellow gold, white gold, and Everose gold versions. The bezels come in an array of color combinations such as red and blue, blue and black, gray and black, brown and black, along with green and black choices. Additionally, the bracelet offerings consist of both Oyster and Jubilee styles crafted in coordinating metals. All these variants further highlight the model's extensive range. (now-vintage) references Some examples include bezels that are entirely black or completely blue.

The GMT-Master Through Time

Although this list isn’t comprehensive, it can act as a chronological guide showcasing the evolution of the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II through various decades. Instead of listing all versions currently available—there are numerous options—we’ve chosen to focus on some key models that stand out. Additionally, keep in mind that when price ranges are provided, they exclude rare instances that do not reflect typical market values for specific watch references.

Rolex GMT-Master model 6542 (1955-1959)

The original GMT-Master was originally created for Pan Am flight crews but soon found popularity among general consumers as well. With a diameter of 38 millimeters, this Oyster case lacked crown protectors and came equipped with a unidirectional, rotatable Bakelite bezel marked with luminous radium indexes. It was prone to breaking—and also radioactive This bezel was subsequently swapped for an anodized aluminum one. Equipped with various four-digit, chronometer-rated movements, both its case and dial saw multiple modifications during its four-year manufacturing period. Some versions came in solid gold with burgundy bezels and featured either alpha or baton-shaped hands. The bracelet accompanying this model matched the metal composition and had an Oyster design.

Reference: 6542

Diameter: 38 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 1036; 1065; 1066 self-winding

Standout Feature: Bakelite bezel; smaller case

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $30,000-$150,000

The Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 (produced from 1959 to 1980)

Although the 6542 marked the initial GMT model, it was the 1675 series introduced in 1959 that established the design template still used today across most contemporary GMT- Masters. During this period, Rolex incorporated protective crown guards into their nascent travel watch and abandoned Bakelite/radium bezels entirely. Over its lifetime, the ref. 1675 underwent various transformations including shifts between gilt and matte dials, alterations in dial layouts and variations in bezel font styles, as well as changes in movement mechanisms. Additionally, early aluminum bezels displayed distinct fading patterns; some "Pepsi" versions turned dark blue and crimson, whereas others shifted towards shades of violet and light azure. Produced continuously for about two decades, the 1675 stands out as one of the lengthiest running models within Rolex’s lineup. Furthermore, it became the inaugural GMT variant offered publicly alongside a coordinating Jubilee bracelet.

NOTE: A fully gold variant of the 1675 model came with skeleton hands, whereas previous iterations lacked crown protectors, which were introduced in subsequent editions. The watch has earned the nickname "Concorde" within collecting circles due to its appearance in multiple Rolex advertisements from the late 1960s through the 1970s, often showcased next to the renowned supersonic jet.

Reference: 1675

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 1036; 1065; 1066; 1565; 1575 self-winding movements

Standout Feature: Addition of guard elements; increased casing dimensions

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $10,000-$30,000

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675/3 (1970-1980)

Although essentially a specialized variant of the ref. 1675, the ref. 1675/3 deserves particular attention because it introduced an iconic color scheme within the GMT series—the “Root Beer.” This model features a steel casing paired with either a brown or black face, complemented by a gold bezel and a dual-toned bezel insert combining shades of brown and gold. Additionally, this edition includes a gold crown along with a coordinating bi-color bracelet. Notably, the ref. 1675/3 gained recognition for incorporating what collectors refer to as the "nipple" dial—a design where circular, luminescent gold markers adorn each hour index point.

Reference: 1675/3

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 1575 automatic

Standout Feature: The first mention of the term "root beer" describing a two-toned beverage.

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $11,000-$25,000

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16750 (1980-1988)

The shift from the four-digit reference 1675 to the five-digit reference 16750 brought about various modifications: Firstly, the GMT-Master gained a quick-set date function; secondly, its original matte dial was replaced by a glossier lacquer version featuring white gold borders—a characteristic retained in numerous contemporary Rolex professional timepieces; thirdly, its water-resistance capability doubled from 50 meters to 100 meters; finally, the calibre 3075 self-winding mechanism enhanced the balance wheel frequency from 28,800 vibrations per hour to 19,600 vibrations per hour. Acting as an intermediary design linking the classic GMT-Master series with the advanced GMT-Master II collection, this watch offers a blend of retro aesthetics alongside several updated functionalities for enthusiasts seeking both historical charm and modern enhancements.

Reference: 16750

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3075 automatic

Standout Feature: Initial blind date; initial shiny enamel dial; enhanced water resistance

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $12,000-$20,000

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 16700 (1988-1999)

The reference 16700 represented the last entry in the GMT-Master series. Surprisingly though, Rolex manufactured it. alongside For many years, Rolex offered a more advanced version of the GMT-Master II before discontinuing it in 1999 and focusing solely on producing the "II" model. This watch operated with the self-winding Rolex caliber 3175 movement; however, its GMT hand remained linked to the primary hour hand, so tracking a secondary timezone required use of the rotatable bezel. The bezel featured not just the iconic red-and-blue “Pepsi” color scheme but also had an entirely black option available. Early models incorporated tritium luminescent material, which was later replaced by LumiNova starting around 1997 until the model’s cancellation in 1999.

Reference: 16700

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3175 automatic

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $10,000-$15,000

The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16760 was produced between 1982 and 1988.

For the first time, the GMT-Master II featured a mechanism (caliber 3085) allowing independent adjustment of the local hour hand. This innovation enabled tracking up to three different time zones from a technical standpoint. However, using this function does require some mental arithmetic since the dial lacks a dedicated 24-hour scale. Additionally, the ability of the local hour hand to jump forward quickly made it useful for updating times instantly upon entering a new timezone during travel—a significant advantage for regular flyers. Due to these changes, the newer caliber required a somewhat bulkier casing, earning it the colloquial moniker “Fat Lady.” Reference number 16760 introduced another iconic element: the now-famous "Coke" bezel featuring black markings for night-time hours contrasted against red ones for day-time hours. Notably, this model marked the debut within the GMT-Master lineup of a click spring-equipped bezel; earlier models utilized friction-type bezels instead.

Reference: 16760

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3085 automatic

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $12,000-$15,000

The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 16710 was produced from 1989 to 2007.

Referring to the 16710 model, which represents the second iteration of the GMT-Master II series, this watch can be seen as another transitional piece. It adopted the updated cal. 3185 movement and had a slimmer profile compared to previous models. The bezels came in three styles: Pepsi, Coke, or an entirely black design. This version coexisted with the final production run of the original GMT-Master I for many years and was positioned at a higher price point.
Due to its extended presence within the Rolex lineup, numerous iterations emerged over time. Early versions utilized tritium-based luminescent material, but later ones switched first to LumiNova and eventually to Super-LumiNova. Additionally, these newer editions omitted the drilled-through lugs found on older pieces. Some late-model watches even incorporated the recently introduced Rolex caliber 3186, particularly those equipped with ceramic bezels known as Cerachrom. Starting from year 2000, the bracelets accompanying the 16710 were outfitted with solid end-links instead of hollow ones.

Reference: 16710

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3185 self-winding movement; Rolex cal. 3186 self-winding mechanism

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $10,000-$15,000

The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 116710LN from 2007 to 2019

The six-digit reference number 116710LN introduced the first GMT-Master II featuring a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert along with an enhanced “super” case design. Despite maintaining a 40mm casing size, noticeable changes include bulkier lugs and a “maxi-style” face characterized by bigger Chromalight-lit markers and hands among others. Initially, this ceramic bezel came exclusively as black, complementing a dial adorned with green highlights for certain texts and the extended GMT hand indicator. Later iterations brought back classic styles like the "Pepsi." Additionally, the model incorporated the advanced cal. 3186 movement equipped with a high-technology Parachrom hairspring, containing 31 gemstones, providing a power reserve lasting up to 50 hours. This watch stood out through its robust appearance, combined with both matte-finished and polished links on the Oyster bracelet, signaling a significant yet understated shift in the aesthetic direction of the GMT-Master series.

Reference: 116710LN

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3186 automatic

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $10,000-$14,000

Rolex GMT-Master II reference 116710BLNR (2013-2019)

Roled advanced its Cerachrom bezel tech with the ref. 116710BLNR model, featuring a two-tone blue-and-black ceramic insert which enthusiasts affectionately call the "Batman" version. Apart from this distinctive feature, this timepiece remains quite similar to the ref. 116710LN variant, retaining the same casing, Oyster band, and internal mechanics. A distinguishing detail of the ref. 116710BLNR lies in its dial design: instead of green accents, it showcases blue lettering along with a blue GMT handstalk. Just like its entirely dark counterpart, this edition came exclusively paired with an Oyster bracelet.

Reference: 116710BLNR

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3186 automatic

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $14,000-$17,000

Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 116719BLRO (2014-2018)

Creating a "Pepsi" variant of the updated Cerachrom bezel required considerable effort from Rolex. When they finally unveiled their creation, it appeared on a white gold edition of the GMT-Master II. This marked the initial incorporation of this metal into the wider GMT-Master lineup; however, its high cost and substantial heft made it inaccessible to many enthusiasts who desired a more affordable stainless-steel model. Over time, Rolex addressed these demands with a stainless-steel iteration. The reference number 116719BLRO came equipped with a striking blue dial during manufacturing runs. One might speculate that this decision aimed at setting it apart even further from the standard steel versions. Apart from the distinct coloration, the 116719BLRO mirrors much of what can be found in similar models: a robust 40mm case design, an accompanying Oyster bracelet, a Cerachrom bezel insert, along with the caliber 3285 movement inside.

Reference: 116719BLRO

Diameter: 40 mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3186 automatic

Price in Today’s Resale Market: $28,000-$38,000

Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710BLRO (From 2018 Onwards)

In 2018, Rolex answered the demands of enthusiasts by introducing a highly anticipated version of the GMT-Master II featuring a striking red-and-blue "Pepsi" Cerachrom bezel. This model was equipped with the new Rolex caliber 3285 automatic movement boasting a remarkable 70-hour power reserve along with the innovative Chronergy escapement. These upgrades marked a notable advancement for the GMT-Master II as a functional timepiece. While focusing on practical improvements, Rolex also paid attention to style and wearability, reintroducing the Jubilee bracelet directly from the manufacturer alongside an Oysterlock clasp offering precise adjustments up to 5mm. With its contemporary movement, multiple bracelet choices, and robust construction, this updated edition remains part of the current Rolex lineup, carrying forth the legacy of the classic reference 6542.

Reference: 126710LN

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3285 automatic

Price: $10,800 (Oyster); $11,000 (Jubilee)

Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR (since 2018)

Introduced with the new steel "Pepsi" GMT-Master ref. 126710BLRO was the striking ref. 126715CHNR, marking the debut of the first fully Everose model in the GMT-Master collection. Paired with an accompanying Everose Oyster bracelet, this watch features a dual-colored black and brown bezel reminiscent of the classic "Root Beer" design seen in models like the 1675/3 and 16753. Additionally, there’s another variant known as the bi-color steel and Everose Rolex, referred to as ref. 126711CHNR, which debuted simultaneously along with various other precious metal iterations that will be discussed further down.

Reference: 126715CHNR

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3285 automatic

Price: $45,200

Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR (2022-Onwards)

In 2022, Rolex shook up the watch industry with the release of the ref. 126720VTNR, a stainless-steel GMT-Master II featuring its crown positioned on the left side of the case. Although the company refrains from labeling it as a "lefty" timepiece—those who aren’t left-handed can appreciate how the left-side crown avoids digging into their wrist like traditional right-handed watches—the innovative design of the 126720VTNR stands out prominently. did It brings joy to many left-handed individuals. The watch features a distinctive black-and-green Cerachrom bezel insert, introducing a fresh color option to the series. Additionally, its accessibility through both an Oyster bracelet and a Jubilee bracelet equipped with EasyLink adjustment ensures suitability for various preferences. By early 2025, the model fitted with the Jubilee bracelet became the priciest stainless-steel GMT-Master II within Rolex’s lineup.

Reference: 126720VTNR

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3285 automatic

Price: $11,350 (Oyster); $11,550 (Jubilee)

Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 26718GRNR (2023-Now)

2023 saw yet another exciting development in the debut of the yellow-gold ref. 26718GRNR. Its black-and-grey Cerachrom bezel represented the first use of this colorway, and its availability on a matching Jubilee bracelet differentiates it from its Everose stablemates. (It also debuted in a two-tone Yellow Rolesor version, which is similarly still in the Rolex catalog.)

Reference: 26718GRNR

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3285 automatic

Price: $43,300

Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126710BLKRNR

Just as before, Rolex made some updates to its GMT-Master II collection for 2024 by incorporating the black-and-gray Cerachrome bezel insert into their steel model. The new ref. 126710GRNR, which can be found on either a Jubilee or an Oyster bracelet, combines this attractive color scheme with a black dial adorned with green highlights similar to those seen in the ref. 116710LN. Naturally, this edition comes equipped with Rolex’s latest cal. 3285 movement along with all standard features such as a Chromalight display and 904L stainless steel build.

Reference: 126710GRNR

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Rolex cal. 3285 automatic

Price: $10,800 (Oyster); $11,000 (Jubilee)

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